Graduation Date
Summer 2018
Document Type
Thesis
Program
Master of Science degree with a major in Kinesiology, option Exercise Science
Committee Chair Name
Dr. Justus Ortega
Committee Chair Affiliation
HSU Faculty or Staff
Second Committee Member Name
Dr. Taylor Bloedon
Second Committee Member Affiliation
HSU Faculty or Staff
Third Committee Member Name
Shannon Childs
Third Committee Member Affiliation
HSU Faculty or Staff
Keywords
Dynamic balance, Rock climbing, Bouldering, Starexcursion balance test
Subject Categories
Kinesiology
Abstract
Climbing requires heavy use of the upper body muscles in the torso and arms to pull the body vertically or traverse horizontally. The upper body profile of climbers has been characterized, however there is little research that has examined the lower body and its contribution to climbing performance. There are studies that have examined postural control while climbing, but no study has evaluated the dynamic balance of the lower extremities in climbers. For this study, lower body dynamic balance was measured using normalized reach distances of the Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT). Eighteen adult, indoor climbers (n=12) and non-climbers (n=6) participated in this study. Climbers were designated either Experienced (n=7) or Novice (n=5) based on their reported redpoint ability. Experienced climbers had significantly greater reaches than Novices for the POSTM and MED excursions (p=.045, .002), and significantly greater reaches than Controls for COMP, POST, POSTM, and MED excursions (p=.022, .014, .018, Pp=.023), and in the POSTL and ANTM excursions compared to Controls (p=.027, .011). Novices had smaller symmetry-differences compared to Experienced climbers for COMP and ANTL scores (p=.044, .021). The purpose of this study was to determine lower body dynamic balance in rock climbers with different ability levels. Results of this study partially supported the alternate hypothesis in that Experienced climbers had greater distance in reaches of the SEBT compared to Novices, but only in the POSTM and MED directions.
Citation Style
APA
Recommended Citation
Shea, Brian G., "Dynamic balance of experienced and novice rock climbers" (2018). Cal Poly Humboldt theses and projects. 203.
https://digitalcommons.humboldt.edu/etd/203